Winter in Tehran Bean, Lamb & Rice Soup
This is the type of recipe that my dad would proudly announce as “hearty peasant fare” when presenting it at dinner, a coup of getting us to eat barley once again. But hearty doesn’t do it justice—it is soulful, warming, and exactly the protein and fiber you need to keep going in fall and winter. Two very important notes: this soup is so much better the second day; it may not taste super flavorful at the end of cooking but it melds together perfectly as it sits. Second, do not skip on the toppings! The yogurt, onions, and especially the dried mint absolutely make it. This comes from Hamed Allahyari’s “Salamati” cookbook which I am slowly, happily cooking my way through with a nice long stop on this recipe.
Plan to soak beans overnight if using dried, otherwise this soup comes together in about 3.5 hours
1/2 cup dried cranberry beans or 1 (14 oz) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup dried chickpeas or 1 (14 oz) can, drained and rinsed
1 cup dried brown or black lentils or 2 (14 oz) cans, drained and rinsed
2/3 cup nice olive oil
5 yellow onions, sliced
2 garlic gloves, diced
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Approximately 1/2 lb. lamb stew meat
12 cups vegetable or beef stock
1/2 cup jasmine rice
1/2 cup barley
1 cup spinach, chopped
2 cups cilantro, stalks and leaves chopped
2 cups flat leaf parsley, stalks and leaves chopped
Small handful fresh chives, finely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
1/3 cup dried mint or sage
Plain yogurt, thinned to pourable, or kashk for serving
Caramelized onions for serving
If using dried beans and lentils, soak each separately in cold water overnight. The next day ahead of cooking, drain and transfer to 3 separate pots. Cook beans and chickpeas over medium heat for 30-40 minutes until soft. Cook the lentils 20-30 minutes until soft. Drain and set aside.
While the beans and legumes are cooking, heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil in a large pot. Add almost all of the onion and cook until golden. Add the garlic and turmeric and stir until fragrant, just one minute. Add the lamb and let brown on all sides. Pour in 12 stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer covered for 1 hour.
Use a slotted spoon to pull the meat out of the pot and shred or dice it. Return to the pot, add the beans and chickpeas, and let cook for another 40 minutes. Add the lentils, rice, barley, spinach, and herbs and cook for another 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. The soup is done when the rice and barley are cooked through and the soup has a thick consistency. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat most of the remaining olive oil in a frying pan and add what’s left of the onion. Cook until golden and slightly crispy on the edges. Move to a plate, then lightly fry the dried sage in the remaining oil for just 30 seconds.
Serve the soup in bowls with a drizzle of yogurt, the onions and the sage. You don’t need pita with all the grains going on, but it doesn’t hurt to dunk a piece in!