Lamb Burgers for Lydia

Cookbooks can be a hundred and one things—cultural and personal storytelling, photojournalism, menu inspiration. They can also be armchair travel companions, taking you to places you’ve never seen, into homes, cities, villages, and wild places. Reading Zuza Zak’s “Amber & Rye” was all of the above—a ‘Baltic food journey’ that made me want to see, taste, and explore the cuisines of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. Of course I had to look in the index first for “lamb,” and found this recipe. My best friend growing up had a grandmother from Estonia, Lydia, who like my own Hungarian grandmother, was always impeccably dressed at the table, even for a casual lunch. Classy, somewhat intimidating, and very exacting about her food, I don’t know that she ever would have deigned to eat a messy, flavor packed burger like this, but I thought of her the first time I savored these incredible burgers.

Serves 4

• Neutral high-heat oil for frying, like avocado

• 1 small shallot or 1/4 yellow onion, super finely diced

• 2 Tablespoons AP flour

• 1 lb ground lamb

• 1 tsp smoked paprika

• 4 slices strong cheese such as sharp cheddar

• 4 brioche buns

• 2 tsp mild yellow or Dijon mustard

• 1 pickle, drained and sliced

• 4 lettuce leaves

• 1/2 red onion, sliced thin and soaked for 20 minutes in lemon juice and a pinch of salt

• 1 Tbsp sauerkraut or home-fermented vegetables (optional)

• Salt and white pepper

Sauce

• 2 1/2 Tablespoons sour cream

• 2 1/2 Tablespoons mayonnaise

• Handful of fresh chives, finely chopped

Heat a little of the oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the shallot or onion and fry until lightly golden. Move to a large mixing bowl and let cool.

Combine all sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.

Dust the 2 Tablespoons of flour on a large plate or cutting board.

Add the ground lamb and paprika to the shallot/onion and add a pinch of salt and pepper. Mix gently with your hands until just combined. Shape into 4 equal patties approximately the size of the buns you’ll use. Roll the burgers in the flour to coat them and shake off excess flour.

Pour 1/4 inch oil into a large frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add your burgers to the pan—only add as many as you can easily flip, do not have them touch. Cook for 4 minutes on one side for medium-rare. Flip over and cook for 2 minutes, add your slice of cheese and cook 2 minutes more.

Slice your buns in half and toast briefly in the toaster or in the oven on broil:low. Spread the bottom half of the burger bun with the mustard. Place the meat on, top with lettuce, pickle, red onion, fermented veggies, and ample sauce. Put your bun top on, grab a napkin and dig in.

Head isu! (Good appetite)